The palette of peat (for your palate)

delicious decay for the glass

We say “smoky” the way we say “blue”—as if the single word is enough to describe the myriad versions and variations of such a spectrum.

But peat never paints in one tone. It gives you sticking-plaster and driftwood fire, lemon over kelp and engine room after rain, chocolate ash and heather ember…and that’s just a start.

Pour a peated dram and let it sit. First you might get a clean, medicinal waft; then something darker and tarry; finally a lift of citrus skating across rope and seaweed.

If the label only says “peated”, why does your glass wander?